Probably one of the most mentally challenging sports I’ve ever done. Why? Surfing covers all aspects of life if you think about it.
It tests your patience with each and every passing wave, as you have to relentlessly wait for the perfect wave to ride. Surfing tests your physical strength – you HAVE to be in shape to surf. Your cardiovascular system will be tested, profusely. It tests you emotionally, you get pounded by wave, after wave, after wave, after wave. You will fall off the board 1000+ times before even riding one wave for one second. But in the one second, you’ll be hooked! It will test you spiritually, as you try to make the metaphysical connection between the earth, the moon, the sun, and the ocean itself. Yes, my friends, that is surfing. Beautiful when you think about it.
My first time surfing was in Australia. Surfers Paradise to be exact. Being able to surf for the first time was actually one of the main reasons I decided to study abroad in Australia when I was 20 years old.
Being from the hoods of Vallejo, California I can say, unequivocally, that surfing is not “the thing to do.” Reason why?
There are no oceans by the hood LMAO!
It’s just that simple. We do not even talk about surfing. I hope to change that conversation.
Needless to say, I fell in love with the sport, not as much as I love gymnastics but it’s in the top three for me.
Coming to Playa Maderas in Nicaragua was a real treat for me. Honestly, I had no idea we were coming to surf, mostly because Romain doesn’t like to tell me anything during our trips, but I was ready to catch a wave!
And Boy Was It Fun!
I went surfing for about a good 2.5 hours! I spent the first hour trying to get back in the groove of surfing and fighting that unpredictable ocean! As I mentioned before you have to be patient and wait for the right wave.
Playa Maderas – How to surf 101:
Get a surfboard. Make sure you have cash because none of the surf rental shops at Playa Maderas accept credit card.
If you’re a beginner I would recommend a longboard. You sacrifice speed for balance and control, which is good if you’re a first-timer.
You also have to be perfectly balanced on your board, with your feet barely dangling off the bottom of your board.
When you spot a wave you want to ride, paddle as fast as you can to gain some forward momentum. As soon as you feel your feet and the board kick up from the wave, jump up on your board as fast as you can.
Keep your knees bent for balance and control and enjoy the ride!
It sounds simple right? But it’s extremely difficult! You will fall off so many times before actually getting on the board once but it’s so rewarding once you ride that first wave. Surfing teaches you so much about your personal grit – I’ve seen so many people quit. Don’t quit on yourself! That is an important lesson I’ve learned from my travels and my adventures. Believe in you and the things you can do!
Deep down inside I’m a wild nature boy but I live in a big city where these wild childish behaviors are frowned upon in modern adult society. Also, since I didn’t experience the outdoors as a kid, when I get the opportunity to enjoy life and nature I take full advantage.
For example, when I’m at a beach I like to analyze the sand. The sand at Playa Maderas was very soft and when wet, it’s “clay and mud-like” my favorite kind of sand!
Reminds me of Australia!
So after a tiresome surfing period, I decided to play in the sand and put it all on my body! I rationalize this behavior as making up for lost time as a kid and people take their bath at spas and stuff and I was just using my imagination!
Honestly, idk I just wanted to enjoy life and I was like “f%#$ it, I was in my happy place” #EnjoyYourLife!
Honestly, we were only here for about six hours, Romain and I did not want to leave until sunset to get some great shots of the milky ocean waves and the orange sky.
These photos were taken and edited by Romain himself and I can’t lie, they’re pretty damn good!
If you’re in Nicaragua I would highly recommend coming to Playa Maderas. It’s some of the best surfing in Nicaragua and a nice place to chill and hang out from the woes of traveling.
Seriously thank you for reading if you made it this far! Here at BROography, we appreciate all our fans and supporters!
Welcome to BROography!
I am the Co-Creator, Jarelle.
A 25-year-old Fitness Entrepreneur in Silicon Valley with a goal to make people healthier. IG @NerdWithAbsOfficial
I met my best-friend, co-author, business partner & all around bad ass, Romain, in Brisbane, Australia while studying abroad in college. Since then, we have traveled to over 15 countries and 5 continents.
We're so narcissistic we decided "Hey, other people should care about our "BRO-Adventures" so "BRO-ography" was born.
Romain and I are from 2 different worlds yet, we find harmony in our worldly differences and find brotherhood.
My writing style is purely from the heart and soul. I aim to be as authentic as possible for all my readers to enjoy.
I think human beings are fascinating, so I will always write through a lens of empathy and compassion to connect with you. I fear the opinion of no man, which this allows me to be open and vulnerable with myself and you all.
Please share any and all articles of your choosing & thank you for all the support in advance :)